The Taihang Mountains stand majestic, and Zezhou is vast and expansive. Jincheng, nestled in the southeastern corner of the Three Jin region, rests against the millennia-old charm of ancient fortresses and is bathed in the refreshing breezes of the Taihang Mountains throughout the four seasons. This land, rich in natural beauty and steeped in a long cultural heritage, not only harbors majestic landscapes and ancient towns dating back a thousand years but has also cultivated a distinctive, down-to-earth local culture.
When it comes to the flavors of Jincheng, what warms the heart first is the century-old charm of home-cooked meals simmered in black earthenware pots. Crafted from clay unique to the Taihang Mountains and fired using ancient methods, these pots are rustic and dark in color, retaining heat and locking in aroma—they are treasured cooking vessels passed down through generations in Jincheng. Dumplings cooked in earthenware pots are crystal-clear and refreshing, with a rich broth and tender fillings; meatballs cooked in earthenware pots are springy and chewy, with a savory flavor that penetrates to the bone; spare ribs simmered slowly over low heat until tender and falling off the bone; and clay-pot tofu, which is smooth, delicate, and has a subtle, lingering sweetness. The magic of the clay pot lies not in heavy seasoning, but in the slow, gentle heat that brings out the natural flavors of the ingredients, transforming ordinary mountain produce into heartwarming, earthly delicacies. These dishes have nourished the people of Zezhou day in and day out, becoming the most deeply rooted culinary foundation of Jincheng.
Among these down-to-earth home-style dishes, the most renowned is Jincheng’s “Pork Stir-Fried with Rice,” a signature dish for entertaining guests that is deeply ingrained in the DNA of the people of Zezhou. Unlike preparations found elsewhere in Shanxi, Jincheng’s version stands as a distinct style: the battered pork slices are stir-fried until tender, translucent, and fresh without being greasy. As the seasons change, two classic variations have emerged: “Green Beans Stir-Fried with Pork” is crisp and refreshing, while stir-fried pork with garlic scapes offers a delicate, lingering fragrance. The harmonious blend of meat and vegetables, with its rich, savory sauce, is poured over perfectly separated grains of rice, creating a layered symphony of aromas from the rice, meat, and vegetables. This home-style dish, rooted in the labor of the fields, reflects the Jincheng people’s frugal, down-to-earth, and appreciation for the simple pleasures of life.
The land nurtures its cuisine; the grain nurtures its people. Thick millet porridge is a wholesome, natural gift from the fertile soil of the Taihang Mountains. Jincheng’s Lucun millet is renowned throughout the land for its plump, golden grains that are soft and glutinous. A folk legend passed down through the ages holds that regularly eating Lucun millet increases the likelihood of having twins, adding a gentle, romantic touch of local charm to this simple dish. A pot of thick, soft, and sticky millet porridge requires no elaborate preparation; simply served with side dishes like sweet shredded radish or crisp stir-fried potato strips, it is simple, soothing, and nourishing—calming the stomach and soothing the mind. From ancient times to the present, it has been the staple food that sustains mountain villagers through spring plowing and autumn harvests—a comforting taste amidst the hardships of the past, embodying the purest and most serene spirit of everyday life among the people of the Taihang Mountains.
Noodles form the cultural foundation of Jincheng’s cuisine, and helele noodles embody the versatile splendor of Zezhou’s noodle traditions. Made using the ancient method of pressing dough on a wooden board, these noodles are chewy and springy, with a pure wheat aroma, evolving into four classic flavors according to the seasons and one’s mood. Clear-broth helele noodles are simple, elegant, and refreshing, fully bringing out the natural aroma of wheat; braised meat helele noodles are rich and robust, with the meat and noodles blending harmoniously to leave a lingering fragrance on the palate; hot pot helele noodles boast a unique flavor, with the aroma of meat filling the air and warming the chilly autumn; and golden squash helele noodles are sweet, soft, and chewy, made with fruits and vegetables blended into the dough for a natural taste. A bowl of helou—whether simple or elaborate, light or rich—embodies the everyday life of Jincheng throughout the four seasons, gently nourishing generation after generation of the children of the Taihang Mountains. Compared to hele, the even more legendary Dayang Zhan Noodles boast a long history. After undergoing multiple traditional steps of fermentation, resting, and rolling, the finished product is translucent, smooth as jade, with a velvety texture and a lingering aftertaste—truly a bowl of ancient imperial noodles brimming with a thousand years of Zhezhou’s heritage.
Jincheng’s culinary culture blends time-honored traditions with fresh, street-food innovations. Meatball instant noodles are a culinary memory unique to Jincheng. Made with Yuzhu instant noodles from neighboring Jiaozuo—which feature chewy, long-cooking noodles with a pure wheat aroma—they are paired with freshly hand-fried meatballs. The broth is clear, the noodles crisp, and the dish perfectly balances meat and vegetables. Add a sprinkle of chopped scallions and Chinese chives, and these simple ingredients come together to create the most comforting of street-food flavors.
The artistry of the mountains and fields is encapsulated in these small pastries. Li Gezhuo is a home-style stuffed pastry unique to Jincheng and recognized as an intangible cultural heritage. Its craftsmanship is exquisite: the dough is as thin as a cicada’s wing, almost translucent; the crust is slightly crisp, while the filling is fresh, fragrant, and plump—a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship upheld by generations of Jincheng artisans. The “Rolled Thin Bread” is supple, light, and thin; you can roll in any combination of meat, vegetables, or fresh produce to your heart’s content. Refreshing and light, it’s suitable for all ages. Then there’s the “Sour Cabbage Black Noodles,” which draws its flavor from locally fermented, aged-in-earthenware-jars sour cabbage—its tangy aroma whets the appetite, and its simple, authentic taste reflects the frugal, resourceful lifestyle of the common people in days gone by. The Sichuan-style meat and vegetable soup is fresh and flavorful, with just the right balance of sour and spicy notes; its gentle warmth soothes the stomach. Blending northern and southern culinary traditions, it has evolved into a distinctive specialty of Zezhou.
Each mountain and river gives birth to a unique flavor; every dish and meal carries a legacy spanning millennia. Every taste in Jincheng is connected to the land and its natural elements, carries the thread of history, and embodies the warmth of local customs. It allows every traveler who comes from afar to savor a flavor and cherish a city, to be enchanted by the everyday life of the Taihang Mountains, and to never forget the true spirit of Zezhou. (Fan Lin Kui)